Bird Watching Magic in San Jose del Pacifico, Oaxaca
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| Bullock's oriole |
By Suzanne Staples
While spending time in Oaxaca city in the state of Oaxaca in southern Mexico, we decided to explore the mountainous areas surrounding the city. Oaxaca rests in a valley between three mountain ranges. The Majestic Sierra Madre del Sur rises to the south, climbing to about nine thousand feet. At the top, a dense pine-oak forest is interspersed with tree ferns, brilliant orchids and meters-long climbing vines. Tiny red salvia flowers and orange paintbrush generously dot the road that is carved from the steep mountain. Many of the simple homes along the road at the higher elevations have plant nurseries. Colorful pots of flowers line up in neat rows against the steep hill. Pink and red begonias flourish here, as do rich blue Nile lillies and white calla lillies. The people carry baskets of these blooms into Oaxaca city to sell in the many markets.
The
small hamlet of San Jose del Pacifico perches along the highway near
the summit of the mountain range. The land drops off
precipitously just one house beyond the road, which continues on to
the Pacific Ocean. Just outside town is a small charming resort
called Puesta del Sol. Carved out of the steep hillside, it
comprises eighteen inviting wood cabanas (cabins), some with
fireplaces for the very chilly evenings. Every cabana comes
with a generous porch and comfy chairs from which to take in the
panoramic view. Land drops off steeply, providing a view of literally
miles of forested hills. Black vultures and hawks cruise below
eye level. The grounds of the resort are generously planted
with flowers and trees that invite all manner of birds.
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| Puesta del Sol: http://www.sanjosedelpacifico.com/ |
There
is a restaurant on the grounds which serves delicious traditional
Mexican fare as well as beer and mescal. On the days we stayed,
the waitress's quiet and charming little girl peeked shyly around
tables to look at the gringos. A deck provides another
breathtaking view of the valleys below. Cafe de olla, Oaxacan
coffee lightly flavored with cinnamon and sugar, tasted great while
watching the white-eared hummingbirds feed on the tall, purple coffee
flowers outside the window.
We
had returned to this area with the excuse of finding the southern
race of Stellar's Jay. This far south in Mexico, the subspecies
is bluer and has different facial markings than the jay which occurs
farther north and in North America. Jays are usually
right upfront, not shy and quite vocal: not a skulky bird! But
we hadn't seen nor heard this jay last year, even though our
wonderful guide and friend, Roque Antonio, did his very best to find
it for us. We were hoping for a glimpse this time, but we knew
we'd see enough incredible birds to make us happy, either way.
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| Stellar's Jay |
When
we arrived at Puesta del Sol and began our steep climb down to our
cabin, we were greeted by the crystal chime song of the brown-backed
solitaire. There is nothing quite like this song. It's a
lovely descending call in what sounds like two-part harmony.
Echoing off the valley sides in the early evening quiet, it sounded
simply ethereal. We were even lucky enough to see the
bird who was singing. He was perched below us, looking out over the
steep valley as he sang. What a welcome. White-eared
hummingbird males aggressively guarded their patches of purple
tobacco.
From
our perch on the porch we could see a small flock of grey
silky-flycatchers moving around in the scrub trees below us.
Their long tails and rich yellow-grey bodies shone in the sun.
Audubon's
warblers crowded the mountain oak next to our cabin and moved
constantly from there to a nearby mountain ash. Black-vented
and Bullock's orioles climbed slowly in a maple-like tree that
sported amazing red flowers that appeared to have a clawed bird's
foot sticking out of each flower. The orioles were savoring the
nectar held in those flowers. Higher in the same tree was a
rose-breasted grosbeak, his breast showing a pink-red line down his
white front as if he had spilled raspberry juice. So
although no jay appeared for us this first day, we were happy.
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| Rose-breasted grosbeak |
Night
fell and the temperature dropped dramatically. After a delicious
dinner during which we watched a spectacular sunset through clouds
pushed in from the ocean, we headed carefully back down the path to
our cabana. On the way we met the senor who lights the fires in
each cabin. In a wheelbarrow, he carried a load of very dense
oak pieces and kindling for the fire. His secret to starting
the fire was to place a bed of sawdust chips first, then kindling,
then oak. Then more sawdust for good measure. Then a
healthy squirt of diesel from a detergent bottle. We had a
crackling fire in no time. He instructed us to add the oak
sparingly in order to make the fire last till morning. What a
cozy feeling to be tucked away in a mountain cabin with a good fire
and heavy blankets. We did have to add logs to the fire during
the night but we must have timed it wrong, as our fire only lasted
till about four a.m. It was cold cold cold when we
got up! But as soon as the sun came over the ridge and
fell on our front porch, we were warm again. From long johns to
T shirt in fifteen minutes. That's how it is in the Sierra
Madre Sur in winter.
Before
heading up for breakfast I stuck my head out the door as I heard a
familiar and welcome call - a jay. Slightly different from our
northern Stellar's jay call, but completely recognizable. And
he was right next to us in the mountain oak. Of course, being a
jay, he was way up in the top, cruising for breakfast. I think
jays look like monkeys in trees, easily loping from one branch to
another, climbing effortlessly and quickly. Standing with
my neck bent back to the max, trying to stay away from the drop-off
in front of our cabin, I caught a few good glimpses. I saw his
dark crest bobbing as he moved, and his dark blue belly. I
watched as he finally flew, doing his flap flap cruise, flap flap
cruise flight.
We
spent the morning wandering the grounds and walking the short
distance into town for a cup of locally grown coffee and a yummy
torta (sandwich) for lunch. The afternoon passed quickly as we
followed the activity of the birds below our cabin and watched the
sun move across the winter sky. Dusk returned, and the birds
flew down into the valley to more protected and warm areas below.
We did the same, moving in to enjoy a glass of very smooth mescal as
we watched the fog push in from the ocean. The moon rose to sail in
and out of the mist as our fire was lit once again to guard against
the cold of the coming mountain night.
More Information:
Roque Antonio Santiago of Oaxaca Birding Tours offers personal, guided bird watching tours throughout the state of Oaxaca.
More information on Oaxaca, Huatulco or Puerto Escondido can be found here:
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